Tate to be inducted into Cowboy Hall of Fame

Another of Kearny County’s finest will soon be inducted into the Kansas Cowboy Hall of Fame. Brad Tate will receive the honor in the Ranchers/Cattlemen category at the Hall of Fame’s induction ceremony slated for November 2. Born with ranching in his blood, Brad is the fourth generation of his family to reside in southwest Kansas and make a life from horses, cattle, and agriculture. His maternal great-grandfather, Alonzo Boylan, established a horse ranch on White Woman Creek 40 miles north of Lakin, capturing, breaking and selling hundreds of wild horses. Boylan also farmed, raised cattle, and built up a prized Jersey dairy herd. Brad’s paternal great-grandfather, George H. Tate, Sr., arrived in Lakin 10 years later and opened a general store on Main Street. The elder Tate also had interests in ranching and agriculture.
Brad’s grandparents, Harry and Lena Tate, acquired land in several southwest Kansas counties. They raised cattle, work horses, brood mares and mule colts which they sold to the U.S. Army and farmers who were still using the animals to plant and harvest crops. Harry and Lena purchased 11,000 acres in Hamilton County in 1927, and Brad was born there on a ranch south of Syracuse in 1934, the son of Cecil and Maude Tate. His dad took baby Brad on the wagon when he ran windmills.
When Brad’s father became cashier of the Kearny County Bank a few years later, he moved his family to Lakin. Brad grew up working cattle and was involved in rodeo throughout high school and college. After graduating from Lakin High School in 1952, he pursued a degree in animal husbandry at Colorado State University where he was a member of a national championship rodeo team, won the regional championship in calf roping and was the runner-up in steer wrestling.
Brad also met his life partner while at college. He and Ann Counter were married in June of 1956 at Greeley, Colo. In 1957, Brad entered the Army and served two years at Fort Bliss where he achieved lieutenant status. The Tates came home to Lakin, and Brad ranched and farmed with his father. In 1960, the father-son duo started Tate Quarter Horse Ranch. They acquired some colts and started showing them at local shows, and in 1961, they bought their first race horse, a stallion named Bar Caro. This was followed by the purchase of Glory Be Good, a stakes-placed son of Top Deck. Later, a Kentucky thoroughbred by the name of Hannibal was acquired. Brad’s racing and breeding career took off. One of his biggest money winners in the 1980s was Fast and Racy which won two futurities and was undefeated as a two-year-old. A few of the Tates’ other top horses include Nu Gnu, Queen of Vail, Queen of Aspen, Tate Express, Sir Veza, Baja Jazz, and Wicked Valentine which earned eight wins in 44 starts from 2013 to 2020.
Brad became a member of the board of directors for the Kansas Quarter Horse Racing Association in 1962, and during his three years as president of the KQHRA, he successfully lobbied for pari-mutuel wagering in Kansas. Brad became a director in the American Quarter Horse Association in 1967, and in 1977, he joined the AQHA Racing Committee. He was a chairman of that committee for two years. In 1985, he was elected to the AQHA’s Executive Committee and became president of the organization in 1989, the 50th anniversary of the AQHA. During his tenure, Brad was instrumental in increasing awareness of the AQHA and American Quarter Horse with the opening of the American Quarter Horse Heritage Center & Museum at Amarillo, TX. After serving on the executive committee, Brad continued to serve the AQHA by chairing the finance committee. In 1998, he was recognized as a 30-year cumulative breeder and was inducted into the American Quarter Horse Hall of Fame in 2000.
Through the years, the Tate family’s holdings continued to increase. Brad became a partner in Tate Enterprises and worked alongside his son, Bret, and cousin George Tate in running Tate Ranch and Triple T Farms. Brad was also a partner in Kearny County Feeders.
Brad and Ann Tate have been staunch supporters of the Kearny County Historical Society and our community. Both served as elders in the Presbyterian Church. Ann faithfully delivered Meals-on-Wheels for years, served on Medical Procurement Committees, and the Kearny County Hospital Board while Brad served terms on the USD 215 school board and the City Council.
In the early 2000s, the Tates moved their ranching operation to northeast Oklahoma, but Brad and Ann retained their Lakin home and return occasionally. Their eldest daughter, Tamara Meisel, resides in Lakin, and daughter Susan Locklear lives in McKinney, Texas. Son Bret was an accomplished horseman like his dad and held the local high school records for calf roping and steer wrestling and was the 1978 All-Around Champion. He too was on the Colorado State University rodeo team, and graduated with honors from the ranch management program at Texas Christian University. Bret passed away in October of 2008, and his son, Ben, now manages Tate Ranch, the sixth generation to have “ranching blood” coursing through his veins.
The Kansas Cowboy Hall of Fame has proudly celebrated the enduring legacy of the cowboy since 2002, and Brad is the fourth inductee with Kearny County ties. Otis Jennings, Vicki Lohman Johnson and Jim Arnold were all inducted in the Working Cowboy/Cowgirl category. Several events surrounding the induction ceremony will take place at Boot Hill Museum in conjunction with the Western Cattle Trail Association’s annual conference which will be commemorating the 150th Anniversary of the Western Cattle Trail. Events scheduled include speakers, trolley tours and museum tours. For tickets or information about this year’s induction ceremony and related festivities, check out the Kansas Cowboy Hall of Fame’s Facebook page at www.facebook.com/kscowboyhalloffame, boothill.org or westerncattletrailassoc.com.

SOURCES: Kansas Cowboy Hall of Fame; “Pioneering Tate Family Celebrates 100 Years in Kearny County” by Florence Fletcher; “Wild Horses Couldn’t Drag Him Away from the AQHA” by Barbara Oringderff; The Quarter Horse Journal; Kansas Horseman Magazine; Diggin’ Up Bones by Betty Barnes; Tate Ranch on Facebook.com; equibase.com; racingandsports.com; archives of the Lakin Independent, and Museum archives

Charlie’s Ruts a local treasure

No one knows for certain just how many thousands of wagons journeyed along the Santa Fe Trail. The heavy cargo carriers often traveled three or more abreast, their wheels etching ruts that can still be seen on various sections of the Trail. Just north of Highway 50 and about three miles west of Deerfield lies Charlie’s Ruts, the site of several sets of parallel swales. This property, donated to the Kearny County Historical Society in 1984 by the late Paul Bentrup, is open to visitors. In fact, visitors are encouraged to walk in the time-smoothed tracks, and that is exactly what Bentrup hoped for when he deeded the property.

An aerial view of the ruts looking east.

Walking in the ruts is a tradition established by Paul’s father and the site’s namesake, Charles Bentrup. When Charlie discovered the wagon swales on his land, he knew he not only wanted to preserve them but share them with the public. Before he died in 1956, Charlie made it known that he wanted the ruts to be made available to visitors for all time.

“That’s the way he wanted it, and that’s the way I want to keep it,” Paul said.

Paul was a faithful caretaker to the ruts and an avid promotor of the Santa Fe Trail. He kept a mailbox at the turnout for the ruts and kept it supplied with a variety of historical information and a notepad for people to sign. His car was always loaded with Trail information which he readily shared and used to recruit new members. In 1987, Paul was the first person recognized by the SFTA with an Ambassador Award. In 2015, he was posthumously inducted into the Association’s Hall of Fame.

The Santa Fe Trail is just one of many historic routes which have been recognized by Congress as national historic trails. Physical traces or remnants of these trails such as wagon ruts, graves, inscriptions and campsites can be found on state lands, in nature preserves, in city parks, on ranches, and even in suburban back yards. Many of those important pieces of trail history have been publicly commemorated, protected and preserved through the National Park Service’s partnership certification program.

In the fall of 2018, Charlie’s Ruts joined the list of Santa Fe Trail certified sites when the Kearny County Historical Society and Kearny County Commissioners entered into a partnership certification agreement with the NPS. The KCHS retains all legal rights to Charlie’s Ruts and is eligible to receive technical assistance, protection and site development guidance, project funding and assistance, and recognition through the park service. A PCA was also entered into between the NPS, KCHS and Bob and Adrian Price who own the land where visitors park and gain access to the ruts.

Bob Price also serves on the historical society board and installed the National Park sign at the ruts last year. The KCHS and Lakin PRIDE also collaborated on the installation of a silhouette at the site featuring a conestoga wagon pulled by two oxen and led by a lone rider on horseback. Clif Gilleland brought the idea for the project to the KCHS on behalf of PRIDE, and generous donations from the community provided the funding. At the 2023 Santa Fe Trail Symposium held at Independence, MO, both organizations were recognized with the Hathaway/Gaines Memorial Heritage Preservation Award for their efforts in preserving Charlie’s Ruts.

Most recently, the kansastravel.org website added a new page devoted to Charlie’s Ruts. Information and pictures can be seen not only on their website but also on their Facebook page.

There’s no doubt that both Charlie and Paul Bentrup would be very pleased with the attention that the ruts have been receiving.

Paul Bentrup is shown standing with the ruts in the background in this picture taken in 1988 by the late Dorothy Morgan. The grass-filled ruts are more easily seen at different times of the year, and the color and texture of the grass in the ruts is different from the surrounding grass.
Paul Bentrup receiving the Santa Fe Trail Ambassador Award in 1987 from Marc Simmons, first president of the SFTA.

 

 

SOURCES: National Park Service; archives of the Lakin Independent and Wichita Eagle; kansastravel.org; Facebook; and Museum archives.

Chouteau’s Island history still very much alive

Chouteau’s Island was the site of a number of skirmishes, and it was one skirmish in particular that earned the island its name. In the spring of 1816, Auguste P. Chouteau and his hunting party were returning from the upper Arkansas in Colorado with a winter’s catch of furs when they were attacked by a band of 200 Pawnee Indians. They retreated to the island where the grove of cottonwood trees, thick clumps of willows and a heavy growth of tall grass provided excellent coverage. Despite being considerably outmanned, Chouteau’s party successfully fought off their attackers. One man was lost and three others wounded.

In 1828, more than $10,000 of silver was buried at Chouteau’s Island by a group of traders known as the Milton Bryan Party. The group was on the return trip from Santa Fe, and among Bryan’s party was a man by the name of William Young Witt. Witt, a third cousin to the grandmother of B.C. Nash, a lifetime Lakin resident, kept a diary of the journey. One morning after arriving at the Upper Cimarron Springs, Bryan’s party was awakened just before dawn.

“The whole earth seemed to resound with the most horrible noises that ever greeted human ears; every blade of grass appeared to re-echo the horrid din,” Witt wrote. “In a few moments every man was at his post, rifle in hand, ready for any emergency, and almost immediately a large band of Indians made their appearance, riding within rifle-shot of the wagon. A continuous battle raged for several hours.”

After successfully stampeding all the horses and mules, the Indians retreated. Hitt was wounded six times. (According to Bryan’s account and Hitt’s son’s account, Hitt was wounded 16 times.) The next morning, some of the men took off in hopes to find the lost stock. Hitt was on his way back to camp when he was overtaken by Indians, but some of his traveling companions arrived in time to save him. Unable to secure any of their stock, the entourage left by foot in the morning with each man shouldering a rifle and a proportion of provisions. After eight days travel, they had less than 100 pounds of flour left and had been unsuccessful in finding any game.

Hitt recalled, “For two weeks the allowance of flour to each individual was but a spoonful, stirred in water and taken three times a day.” Adding to their futility was a scarcity of water. In desperation, the troupe was once compelled to suck the moist clay from a buffalo wallow.

As soon as a convenient camping ground was found, the men made shelter and left the weakest of their party while some of the strongest hunted. Successful at last in killing some small game and buffalo, they used buffalo chips to fuel a fire. After a few day’s rest, the men began again to march homeward, but their money had become a greater burden than they could bare. They decided to bury it at the first good place they came upon.

“We came to an island in the river to which we waded, and there, between two large trees, dug a hole and deposited our treasure…This task finished, with much lighter burdens, but more anxious than ever, we again took up our march eastwardly.”

Traveling for over two weeks by foot, the men were exhausted; some scarcely able to move. They divided company, the weaker ones to proceed by easier stages. When the stronger ones arrived at the settlement, they sent a party with horses to bring in their comrades who were seemingly nothing but human skeletons wrapped in rags, but “all got safely to their homes.”

The following year, the traders returned to Chouteau’s Island; however, Hitt is not mentioned as being among the group of men. Their party was accompanied by Major Bennett Riley and his men, the first military escort on the Trail. The silver was retrieved, and the trading party continued their trek to Santa Fe with their goods. South of the river was Mexican territory, and the American troops could go no farther.  The traders began their journey down Bear Creek pass and were attacked by a band of Indians upon entering the sandhills. Nine of the men, riding at full speed, returned to the soldiers with the dreadful news. The troops disregarded their orders and made a hurried march across the river to defend the caravan. One trader, Samuel Lamme, lost his life in the assault, and his tortured and mutilated body was laid to rest at the edge of the hills not far from the Trail. Riley and his troops accompanied the traders for two more days and then reluctantly returned to Chouteau’s Island where they camped for three months awaiting the caravan’s return.

Between 1865 and 1870, a caravan of traders was attacked by Indians in the valley between Chouteau’s Island and Indian Mound. Word reached Fort Garland of the attack, and soldiers were sent to the scene. By the time they reached the area, the Indians had fled and the traders were all dead. The soldiers buried them and returned to Fort Garland. Legend has it that the burial ground was visible for many years as the grass there was much greener.

In 1941, Kansas was celebrating the 400th anniversary of the coming of Coronado to Quivira, the first white man to visit Kansas. The occasion was observed by placing historical markers all over the state. Kearny County held a Pioneer Day celebration that July, and a crowd of more than 1,000 witnessed one of the largest parades in Lakin where 10-gallon hats, cattlemen’s garb, pioneer costumes, horse riders and buckboards were abundant. Following a program at the court house, participants drove a mile west of Lakin on US 50 for more speeches, music, celebrating and the unveiling of the Chouteau Island marker. Although the original sign is long gone, a sign commemorating Chouteau’s Island can still be found just west of Lakin at the roadside park beside the golf course.

 Photos from the 1941 Chouteau’s Island marker reveal. The island once rose lush and green in the middle of the Arkansas River, its disappearance blamed on natural forces, flood control measures and the use of the Arkansas for irrigation.

SOURCES: “William Y. Hitt Santa Fe Trail Memoires,” “The Old Santa Fe Trail” by Colonel Henry Inman, “Commerce of the Prairies” by Josiah Gregg, “The Flight of Time” by Milton E. Bryan, “Kansas Before 1854: A Revised Annals” compiled by Louis Barry, “Chronicle of Bennett C. Riley” by Leo E. Oliva; History of Kearny County Vol. 1, & ancestry.com. Special thanks to Meg Nash Spellman.

 

The Marking of the Santa Fe Trail

By 1900, the Santa Fe Trail was already history. If asked to locate the Trail, very few people could do so. The Kansas Daughters of the American Revolution, an organization which honors our American heritage, set a plan in motion in 1902 to mark the old commerce route as a tribute to the brave pioneers who traversed it.  “Those early travelers prized the old Trail as a road to the future, and we hope the people of years to come will use it and keep its early history in remembrance.”

The DAR enlisted the aid of maps, the knowledge of early settlers, the Kansas State Historical Society and some previously erected markers to trace the route of the SFT. At a Trail Committee meeting in 1905, the Daughters decided to ask the school children of Kansas to contribute a penny each toward the marking of the Trail since the funds appropriated by the State were not enough to pay for all the markers. On Kansas Day 1906, which was also designated as Trail Day, approximately 200 pennies were collected from Lakin students to help in the endeavor.

In 1907, the DAR announced that 96 markers had been placed throughout Kansas. Kearny County’s markers arrived by rail in July of that year, and commissioners paid the expense of setting the five stones. Since Kearny County did not have a DAR chapter, County Clerk and Lakin pioneer F.L. Pierce gave prompt and efficient attention to the task of having the markers placed. The marker placed in Deerfield stands in the southeast corner of the city park. In Lakin, one monument was set at the old courthouse at the corner of Main and Waterman. This marker was moved to the current courthouse in 1939. The third marker in Lakin sits in front of the high school. It was moved to this location in 1961 but had originally been placed at the site of the school building which sat on the west end of the Lakin Grade School block.

Hartland’s Main Street was the location of the fourth marker. As Hartland gradually disappeared, the marker was engulfed in weeds. Billy Carter was cultivating the ground and put a long chain around the marker and pulled it over to his house. Later the DAR Chapter of Garden City secured the assistance of the highway commission and had the marker moved to the River Road where it intersects the once Main Street of Hartland.

The final marker was placed between Lakin and Deerfield at Long Schoolhouse. For several years after the school closed, the marker remained where it was placed by the side of the highway. As the story goes, a young man who was opening a filling station in Lakin thought the marker would look good on the station grounds and brought it to Lakin. Kearny County commissioners later instructed Paul McVey, county engineer, to move this marker to Indian Mound. Mr. McVey and Bill Fross accomplished this difficult task using a winch truck.

The dates engraved on the markers (1822-1872) are a somewhat controversial topic among trail enthusiasts as the Santa Fe Trail Association recognizes the start of the trail as 1821 when William Becknell first ventured to Santa Fe and the end of the trail as 1880 when the railroad reached Santa Fe. The Story of the Marking of the Santa Fe Trail by the Daughters of the American Revolution in Kansas and the State of Kansas claims, “The earliest use of the Trail was in 1822, when a caravan left Boonville, Mo., by way of Lexington, Independence, Westport (now Kansas City, Mo.), thence in a southwesterly direction across the great State of Kansas, then only a desert and wilderness, and on to Santa Fe, New Mexico.” The DAR correlated the end of the trail with the completion of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad through Kansas in 1872. In 1996, a plea was made in the quarterly newsletter of the Santa Fe Trail Association to press for historical accuracy, but the original engraved dates remain. Nonetheless, more important than the dates on the granite markers is the fact that had the Daughters not marked the historic route when they did, the location of the Santa Fe Trail could have been lost forever.

The DAR’s Santa Fe Trail marker at Lakin High School.

SOURCES: “The Story of the Marking of the Santa Fe Trail by the Daughters of the American Revolution in Kansas and the State of Kansas” by DAR Historian Mrs. T.A. Cordry; “History of Kearny County” Vol. I; Kansapedia, Kansas State Historical Society, www.dar.com; www.santafetrailresearch.com; archives of the Advocate; Museum archives, and information provided by the late Marcella McVey.

 

The Santa Fe Trail through Kearny County

Indian Mound and Chouteau’s Island, both in Kearny County, were the most conspicuous landmarks on the Santa Fe Trail between Pawnee Rock and Bent’s Fort. One can only imagine the array of traders, soldiers, freighters and emigrants who passed through our ‘neck of the woods’ while traversing America’s first commercial highway.
In September of 1821, Missouri trader William Becknell left Franklin with wagonloads of cloth, buttons, buckles, tools and more. It took him and his five compadres roughly two and a half months to cross Kansas and reach Santa Fe, NM. Unlike others before him who had been arrested by Spanish soldiers, Becknell was welcomed. What was so important about Becknell’s timing? He had made it to New Mexico after the territory won its freedom from Spain. He returned to Missouri with bags of silver and glowing accounts of the profits to be made in the Santa Fe trade. Other traders soon followed suit.
By 1824, commercial trade between Missouri and New Mexico was a significant benefit to both the U.S. and Mexico. That year, the General Survey Act authorized the president to order surveys for roads and canals “of national importance, in a commercial or military point of view, or necessary for the transportation of public mail.” President James Monroe assigned responsibility for the surveys to the Corps of Engineers. The act provided $10,000 for marking the Santa Fe Trail and $20,000 for implementing right-of-way treaties with Native American tribes whose land touched the route. The Sibley Expedition began the nearly two-year endeavor in July of 1825.
There were two routes to the Santa Fe Trail, the Cimarron Route and the Mountain Route. Just west of Dodge City, some traders crossed the Arkansas River at the middle crossing to take a shortcut called the Cimarron Cut-off or the Jornada. This route was very dangerous because it passed through Indian hunting grounds and very little water was available. Wagons that did not take the Cimarron Cut-off continued west beside the Arkansas River, eventually arriving in what is now Kearny County. Here, caravans had two choices – continue west and take the treacherous mountain route which offered more water and fewer Indian dangers or use the upper crossing, turning near Chouteau’s Island and traveling the Bear Creek Pass.
According to field notes by U.S. Engineer Joseph C. Brown, a member of the Sibley Expedition, “The road is again very good up to Chouteau’s Island – the largest island of timber on the river. Many things unite to mark the place so strongly that the traveler will not mistake it … On the north side of the river the hills approach tolerable nigh and on (one) of them a sort of mound conspicuous some miles distance. . . The course of the river likewise being more south identify the place.”
Indian Mound, about five miles west of Lakin, overlooked Chouteau’s Island. Speculation regarding the origin of the mound is longstanding. Was it manmade or a phenomenon of nature? Whatever the case may be, Indian Mound offered a vantage point to both settlers and Native Americans on the lookout for approaching parties. Wind and rain have eroded the mound considerably.
Chouteau’s Island once rose lush and green in the middle of the Arkansas River. Its disappearance is blamed on natural forces, flood control measures and the use of the Arkansas for irrigation. The island was named for Auguste P. Chouteau whose hunting party entrenched themselves on the island in 1816 and successfully fought off an attack of 200 Pawnee Indians.
Wagon trains turned south at Chouteau’s Island and skirted the small but very deep Clear Lake, noted by Brown as a large pond slightly to the east. They then followed Bear Creek Pass, a natural passageway through the sand hills created by a slippage in the Cretaceous Formation around 250,000 years ago. According to geologists, a stream flowed through Bear Creek into the Arkansas River, but dry periods led to the sand blowing over the water and the stream going underground. This theory rings true with what is known of Sunken Wells, a watering hole and stopover point near the Kearny-Grant county line. Stories tell how travelers would stop for the night in the dry sand hills with no water in sight. They would wake in the morning and were surprised to find large cracks in the earth near where they had been sleeping and a lake of water, 200 feet or more in diameter. Within a few hours, the lake would disappear. From this southern end of the Bear Creek Pass, travelers struck a due south course until meeting up with the Cimarron Cut-off at the lower spring (Wagon Bed Springs) in what is now Grant County.
By 1825, goods from Missouri were not only being traded in Santa Fe but also to other points farther south. In 1828 alone, $150,000 of merchandise was taken to Santa Fe. By that time, Independence, MO had become the starting point of the trail. The trail was used primarily as a commercial road between 1821 and 1880 and quickly became a route of cultural exchange. A few months into the Mexican-American War in 1846, America’s Army of the West followed the Santa Fe Trail westward to successfully invade Mexico. Following the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo which ended the war in 1848, the Santa Fe Trail became a national road connecting the more settled parts of the United States to the new southwest territories. According to the National Park Service, commercial freighting along the trail boomed to unheard-of levels, including considerably large amounts of military freighters who were supplying the southwestern forts. The trail was also used by thousands of gold seekers heading to Colorado and California, stagecoach lines, adventurers, missionaries, wealthy New Mexican families and emigrants.
Railroads began expanding westward across Kansas when the Civil War ended. Shipping goods by train was faster and easier, and the lengths that traders had to travel on the trail grew shorter. The glory days of the oldest and most important overland trade route across the Great Plains were over when the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad reached Santa Fe in 1880.
SOURCES: National Park Service; Santa Fe Trail Association; “Bear Creek Pass and the Santa Fe Trail” by Dorothy Morgan; History of Kearny County Vol. 1, and Museum archives.
Map courtesy of the Santa Fe Trail Association.
Photo of Indian Mound provided by Jason Harrison whose 2017 Eagle Scout project involved making improvements to the site which included the installation of the Santa Fe National Historic Trail sign.
A lone angler tries his luck at Clear Lake in this photo from an article by the late Dorothy Morgan which appeared in the Santa Fe Trail Association’s August 1997 Wagon Tracks.
Now only a slight depression, Sunken Wells on the south end of Bear Creek Pass can be seen from Highway 25 when traveling from Lakin to Ulysses. This photo was taken in 2018 after heavy rains filled the area.

The Tale of Jessee James

Images of a gun-slinging, rough-riding bandit generally come to mind when hearing the name “Jesse James,” but Kearny County’s Jessee was a kind neighbor and devoted father. The son of a Civil War doctor, he was married to his father’s younger half-sister according to Ancestry.com and Find a Grave records.

Jessee was born in 1860 to William “Doc Billy” and Phoebe (Perkins) James at Van Buren, Arkansas. At Fredonia, KS in 1881, he married Nancy Ann Priscilla James, the daughter of Jesse Ballard James and his second wife, Elizabeth Campbell. Jessee and Nancy’s first child, a daughter named Della, died two days after her birth in Bourbon County, Ks. Son Homer was born in Kingman County in 1884, and daughter Maybelle was born about 18 months later in Edwards County.

L-R: Jesse, Homer, Maybelle, Nancy and Roscoe James

After hearing stories of how one could file on a homestead and tree claim, prove up, and gain ownership to several acres of land Out West, the James family decided to try their luck at a new location. In early March of 1886, they loaded their belongings into, on and around the sides of their prairie schooner, and Jessee, Nancy, Homer and baby Maybelle made their way to the north flats of Kearny County. They settled on the southwest quarter section of 12-22-36 with their two mules, two cows, a calf that was born on the journey west, 12 pigeons and their shepherd dog, Tige. The wagon was unloaded, and the wagon box with its bows and cover was set on the ground to serve as a hut for the family to stay in until a small home could be built. Instead of being covered with grass, the prairie was burned off black, supposedly by cattlemen trying to dissuade settlers. One of the first tasks at hands, besides building a dwelling, was to dig a well.

Sons Thurlow and Roscoe were added to the family in 1887 and 1890, respectively. Then, in 1893, the family moved to Jessee’s tree claim on the northeast quarter section of 4-22-36 so that the children could attend Columbian (later Columbia) School. Not yet five years old, Thurlow died in 1902 and baby Sula was born four months later. Water was hard to come by on the flats, and pioneer life was riddled with trials. The James’s saw many of their neighbors leave the area, but they pressed on. Jessee provided for his family by raising stock and farming. He also did occasional teamwork for neighbors who didn’t have the means to come to town and pick up necessities for themselves. Jessee served on the District 7 school board for 11 years and was serving on the Hibbard Township board at the time of his death in February of 1904. He had come to Lakin a few days earlier to secure necessary supplies for two of his children who were seriously ill, caught a cold and died of pneumonia at the family home.

L-R: Homer, Sula, Nancy, Roscoe and Maybelle James. The shrouded photo is of Jesse James.

After Jessee’s death, Nancy James homesteaded the northeast quarter section of 9-22-36. In 1905, she moved with her children to this land where the family could have an abundance of water without having to haul it. Nancy never remarried and died in 1946.

Nancy James outside her home in northern Kearny County.

Homer and Maybelle filed on nearby homesteads when they reached the eligible age. Homer married Stella Hutton in 1910, and during 1911 and 1912, he worked in Wyoming as a cowboy on the TE Ranch  which belonged to Buffalo Bill Cody. Later the family moved to New Mexico and then to Colorado where Homer succumbed to the Spanish flu in 1918. Stella returned to Lakin with the couple’s two children, Gaylord and Della (later Mrs. Glenn Anschutz). Two-year-old daughter Lena had died in 1914.

Homer and Stella (Hutton) James

Roscoe James married Frances Wilkinson in 1910, and they lived for a time at Winfield, Kansas before moving to Colorado in 1923. The couple had 12 children, two of whom died in infancy. A retired carpenter, Roscoe was living at Pueblo when he died in 1963.

Maybelle became a teacher and lived for many years on her homestead just three miles west of her childhood home in Hibbard Township. She was married to Rudolph Gropp in 1911, and they moved into Lakin just a few years prior to Rudy’s death in 1969. Maybelle remained in Lakin until the mid-1980s when she went to live with her daughter, Elizabeth, in West Fork, Arkansas. Maybelle died in 1989 at the age of 103. She and Rudy’s son, Jesse Samuel, was living in California at the time of his mother’s death.

Rudy and Maybelle (James) Gropp
Sula James Mace and Maybelle James Gropp inside their home on Hamilton Street with their brother Homer’s grandson and his children.

Sula James, also a teacher, married Arthur Mace of Wichita County in 1928. They started a sheep operation and moved in 1952 to Colorado where the water supply was better. After Arthur’s death in 1970, Sula returned to Lakin and made her home with Maybelle in a modest bungalow on Hamilton Street. She lived there until entering High Plains Retirement Village in 1990 and died at the age of 88 in 1991. Sula and Arthur’s only child, a daughter by the name of Nancy Ellen, died in infancy.

The story of Jessee James and his family is not unlike those of the other pioneers who ventured west and lived lives of hard work, courage, tribulation, and perseverance. None of Jessee’s descendants remain in Kearny County; nonetheless, the family is important to our history. Maybelle and her husband were charter members of the Kearny County Historical Society, and Maybelle recorded and shared a great deal of local history with the society. The Columbia Schoolhouse on Museum grounds was a gift from her to our entire community.

To know Maybelle and Sula was a gift in itself. As a little girl who lived just two doors away, this writer spent many a Saturday morning at their home hearing stories of their life on the Kansas plains and songs of old while watching the sisters tat, bead, crochet and more. They were fascinating, kind and joyful women who helped fuel the love of local history that courses through my veins.

SOURCES: History of Kearny County Vol. 1; Diggin’ Up Bones by Betty Barnes; Find a Grave; Ancestry.com; Museum archives and archives of the Lakin Independent and Advocate.

 

Columbia School: a glimpse into the classrooms of old

Built in simpler times, rural one-room schoolhouses once dotted the Kearny County landscape. These quaint and often crowded schools served the families who lived too far out in the country to attend school in town, and a single teacher taught grades first through eighth. These school buildings were often moved as populations shifted.

Columbia School was one of these schools. Now on the Kearny County Museum grounds, the school house was built north of Lakin in 1893 on the southwest corner of section 34-22-36. It was the first school built in what was then known as District 7, and Willard Miller was hired as the first teacher.  Miller suggested the name “Columbian” as that was the year of the Columbian Exposition, the world’s fair held in Chicago which celebrated the 400th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’s voyage to America.

Columbian would go through a succession of teachers as well as students in the coming years as families moved in and out of the neighborhood. There was no school taught there during some terms, and other terms were shortened to as little as four months. According to former student and teacher Maybelle James Gropp, the schoolhouse was moved about 1912 to the NE quarter section of 9-22-36 to accommodate the shifting population, and the “n” was dropped from the name. One-room schools were also often referred to by the surname of the family whose ground the school was located on or by the families whose children made up the majority of the attendance. Columbia was known at times as the James and Bruner school as well as the Greeson school.

Church services, Sunday School, revivals and social programs were also held in the little school building. Pie socials and other fundraisers helped with purchasing supplies and equipment for the school, and books were regularly exchanged with other rural schools to provide pupils with a variety of reading materials. After receiving their eighth-grade education, students took the rural school examination in Lakin. Some went on to attend high school after that while others joined the work force. A few, like Maybelle, returned to teach at Columbia.

Mildred Linder taught at Columbia during the 1930s and recalled how a blizzard made it impossible for parents to pick up their children from school that awful winter day. Students stayed all night in the school house, and to keep everyone warm, Lindner had to make several trips throughout the night to retrieve coal from the outside coal shed. “We weathered the storm, and the children didn’t cause any trouble, but we were glad when the roads were opened about 10 a.m. and their parents came to take them home.”

Columbia School Year 1943-1944. L-R: Teacher Edith Grusing, Rose Miiller, Theresia Miiller, Harold Grusing, Joan Murray, Myrna Michel, Robert Grusing, and Mary Miiller.

In 1951, Columbia was consolidated into District 23. A new school building, North Kearny School, opened in January of 1952 to accommodate District 23 students. Columbia went up on the auction block that year, and Maybelle and her husband, Rudy Gropp, purchased the building. Maybelle would later transfer ownership to the Kearny County Historical Society for the whole sum of $1.

Forrest Elvin Greeson in front of Columbia School where the Greeson children attended school. Photo courtesy of Bill Adams.

Columbia was moved from its location about 15 miles north of Lakin to the museum grounds in 1977, and Lynn Cannon and Harold P. Walker, both long-time Kearny County residents, donated considerable time and labor to restore the building both inside and out. Several others also helped with the repairs and with furnishing the one-room school, and many donated graciously to the project. A grand opening was held May 10, 1980, along with an open house for the Kearny County Museum’s main building. Maybelle was no longer living in Lakin at that time so her sister, Sula James Mace, cut the ribbon to the school. Sula too had not only attended but taught at Columbia. Since that celebratory day in 1980, school children and museum visitors have delighted in learning lessons “of old” while visiting this preserved classroom of the pioneers.

May 1980 Foster Eskelund and Sula James Mace cut the ribbon at the Columbia School open house.

 

SOURCES: History of Kearny County Vol. I & II; Museum archives; and archives of the Advocate, Lakin Independent, and Garden City Telegram.

The hometown flavor of Scotty’s Cafe

The sign in the window of the building at 109 N. Main Street announced “Rotary meets on Monday night at Scotty’s.” I don’t know why I mention the street address because no one knew what it was nor did they pay any attention. The building is currently the location of Golden Plains Credit Union.

Before I get too far, let me introduce myself. My name is Arnold Kash and I was raised on a farm 12 miles west of Lakin. My first contact with the Davis family was when I entered high school in 1946. There I encountered the eldest Davis daughter, the cute and clever Barbara. I was smitten.

Scotty’s Café opened for business in 1947 as a partnership between Glenn and Della Anschutz and Leon (Scotty) and Leona Davis. The Davis’s were the operating partners and the Anschutz’s, who operated Glenn’s Grocery, obviously had visions of the joint venture consuming large amounts of groceries. The café was conveniently and strategically located directly across the street from Rosel’s Recreation (pool hall). The restaurant building had earlier been occupied by the Nash & Davis Hardware & Furniture Store. (On a personal note, while I was gathering information, I learned that this building had even earlier served as a movie house where my parents, Clarence Kash and Viola Miller, first met during Christmas vacation in 1929).

The restaurant served a lot of what today would be termed “comfort food.” Menu staples were meat loaf with potatoes and gravy, macaroni and cheese, roast beef and trimmings, chicken fried steak, pork chops and, of course, cheeseburgers and fries. Every meal came complete with a salad, dessert and a beverage.  Lunch prices were $1.50 or thereabouts. One of the main things that kept customers coming back was Linda McCort’s mastery in the kitchen. Linda could turn out homemade yeast dinner rolls that knew no equal. The rolls were served with most meals, except when Linda wasn’t in the mood to make them, and contributed to many a bloated midsection of the town.

Scotty and Leona were well suited for the rigors of operating the café. Both were in their early 40s at the time and were active contributors to the community. Scotty was a humorous and very likeable man who was the operating partner in the Nash & Davis Funeral Home concurrently while owning the café. Scotty was averse to stressful situations and such matters were routine in the operation of a restaurant. When things got hot at the café, Scotty usually sought the peace and quiet and on occasion, has been known to create it. Leona was an energetic and enthusiastic woman with a talent for organizing and getting things done.

The secret weapon of the restaurant business was four teen-age children – Barbara, Richard, John and Diana, ages 17, 16, 15 and 14 (true Irish quadruplets) and a built-in labor pool. The nubile Barbara waited tables and ran the register. Richard bussed dishes and washed them, later claiming that he washed enough dishes at “Scotty’s” to last a lifetime. John was also pressed into service doing pots and pans, mopping floors and stacking chairs. Diana’s specialty was running the register and chatting up the customers. Another source of conscripted labor was any high school friend of the family who was caught hanging around. You might be there with social matters in mind and soon find yourself with a mop in your hands.

The Davis Family: John, Richard, Diana, Barbara, Leona and Leon (Scotty). Eventually, the Davis’s became sole owners of Scotty’s Cafe.

The following is John Davis’s remembrances of the restaurant years. John was around the café longer than any of the others…

“After a year of eating restaurant meals, I really looked forward to the Saturday evening meal. A home cooked meal – regardless of what was placed on the table – to me it was a gastronomical delight! Thanks, Mom, for being such a good homestyle cook.

“One of my staple menu items during the café years was grilled chicken fried steaks. Alas too much of a good thing can have long-term adverse consequences. I apparently used up my lifetime allotment for enjoying chicken fried steaks during the café years.  I attempted to eat no more than three chicken fried steaks in the intervening years. As I recall in all three instances, after one or two bites I regretted my entrée selection.

“Saturday mornings were the bane of my week. My chore – a thorough mopping of the restaurant floor. Stack the chairs, move the tables to one end of the floor, soapy water generously applied to floor, clean water rinsing until all the streaks were eliminated, allow to dry, move chairs to other end of floor and repeat the sequence on the still dirty half of the floor.  My Dad helped me get started but soon found some other high priority chore to occupy his time.

“My Sunday chore was only slightly better than the Saturday chore because it only took about an hour and one-half each week. First challenge, wrestle the dirty commercial –sized pots and pans without getting the front of my clothes wet. The next challenge was to unload the dirty dish containers, scrape the debris into the garbage disposal, pre-rinse the china, glasses and plate ware. I would place the items in soapy water, dive in and grab an item, give a swipe or two with the dishcloth, place item in hot rinse bath, rescue the item without sustaining a burn injury, then place the item in the drying rack. I would then sort/stack the clean dishes, sort glasses, separate the plate ware into four or five groups, deliver items to their assigned places in the kitchen or serving room and with luck get released from assignment before the next group of dirty pans showed up.

“The one positive aspect to that time of my life involves the café employees. To this day I carry a huge number of pleasant memories regarding those individuals. They must have spoiled me as I cannot recall any one of them I don’t think the world of even to this day.

“Life has its advantages to being restaurant dependent for meals. When I got hungry, I ate, and I was hungry a couple of times during the afternoon. Like most children, I had this thing about cheeseburgers, but I wouldn’t slight hot roast beef sandwiches. I got to eat all the French fries I wanted plus fill up on ice cream – make that pie ala mode. Oh yes – pop was always available. Occasionally a steak would show up that was too small to serve to a customer, so I would be offered the opportunity to taste that steak on my taste buds.”

All in all, the restaurant was a cheerful place that became a community gathering spot during the time it was in operation. There were few Kearny County residents who didn’t enjoy a working day lunch, family supper, or Sunday dinner. And it all came from hard work and good eats.

Mike Weber and the building that has served Kearny Countians for over 100 years

Mike Weber had a serious and somber demeanor and was not known to smile much. Yet, the brother-in-law of Lakin’s founding father was one of the most esteemed citizens in Kearny County. Michael A. Weber was born in Pennsylvania in 1856. He came west to Kansas in June of 1885, settling on a claim near Lakin. In 1895, he married Jennie Farrell at the home of Jennie’s older sister and husband, Mary and John O’Loughlin.

Jennie and Mike Weber on their front porch with their niece Jennie Rose O’Loughlin in 1895. The Weber home was on the northwest corner of Washington Ave. and Lakin Street.

After five years of serving as bookkeeper and clerk at O’Loughlin’s store, Mike went into partnership with John in 1890. All of Lakin was pleased to learn that Mike had become a proprietor of the business. “We feel assured that if the experience and fair dealing are any advantage to purchasers, the new firm  will continue to maintain the old prestige of reliability so carefully built up by John O’Loughlin.” Weber remained in partnership with his brother-in-law for 20 years.

In 1910, Mike had a two-story, 100’ long building built at 109 N. Main, and on Dec. 30th of that year, The Lakin Investigator announced that Weber was going into business for himself with the dissolvement of O’Loughlin and Weber. Weber’s shelves were stocked with groceries, dry goods, dishes, clothing, shoes and more. While he did a profitable business for himself, Mike sold out his stock of goods in 1916 and retired from the mercantile business.

Known for his honesty, politeness and conscientiousness, Mike Weber served on the school board, as city treasurer, and was involved with the Kearny County Bank as a stockholder, director and president. Influential in the formation of the Catholic Church here, Mike was one of its most faithful congregants. Jennie was active in the church throughout her life and was a charter member of the Altar Society. Mike and Jennie lived a block away from the church, and they were in charge of ringing the church’s bell three times a day.

Mike passed away in 1929, and Jennie died in 1948. They were survived by two children, Frank Weber and Katherine McBee. Their three other children had died either in infancy or early childhood.

After Mike’s closing-out sale, the interior of his mercantile building was remodeled. A five-foot incline and opera chairs were installed, a new piano was purchased, and a machine booth was ordered to make a first-class picture show. A stage and dressing room were also incorporated to accommodate vaudeville acts, wrestlers, and other live performers. Balcony seats were installed in the facility the following year. The Electric Theatre was in operation by July 4, 1916 and operated by the Weber’s son.

In the beginning, silent moving pictures flickered while Miss Nina Yohn sat at the piano providing background music. With a five-cent admission, the Electric was advertised as the “home of the best pictures” and gave four entertainments per week. In 1924, a fire occurred in the room where the picture machine was situated. Started by an oil heater that was used to warm the room, the blaze was quickly exterminated. Though not much damage was done to the building, the picture machine sustained damage and was replaced with another. By 1931, movie-loving people could take in the best “talkie” pictures, but the theatre ceased to operate year-round, and ads stopped appearing in the local papers. The theatre was still operating at the end of 1932, but we could not conclusively determine when it closed its doors. The Lakin Independent reported that the building was sold for unpaid taxes at a sheriff’s sale in 1940 after standing idle for a good time. Leon Davis was the lucky bidder, acquiring the building for $525. J.J. Nash and Davis moved their hardware/furniture business into the building after the upper story was taken off, the roof lowered, and upstairs windows removed and filled in with brick.

In 1947, Mr. and Mrs. Leon Davis and the Glenn Anschutzs opened Scotty’s Café in the building, but then Leon moved his furniture store back into the building in 1956 after the café closed down. After a bond issue to build a new library failed in 1964, the building was rented to house the county library and museum. In the summer of 1979, Carol Cramer and DiAnne Jaeger opened The County Emporium featuring home furnishings and decorations. It became home to Wheatbelt Credit Union in 1983 and has been a branch office for Golden Plains Credit Union since 1992.

 

 

SOURCES: History of Kearny County Vol. 1; Diggin’ Up Bones by Betty Barnes; Museum archives; and archives of the Lakin Investigator, Advocate and Independent.